Fancy an Espresso?

Sewing patterns with a vintage feel yet practical AND in a wider size range? Please, meet StephC! She blogs over at 3hourspast and is the creative mind behind Cake Patterns.

Her first pattern, Tiramisu Dress was also the first one I bought and stitched. I bought the PDF pattern to save a little but I heard tell that her printed patterns are absolutely gorgeous.

After stitching my first Tira (that I haven’t properly modeled yet, even because I dropped a size or so since then) I decided she’s my favourite designer ever (plus, Tiramisu in my favorite dessert so the name might have influenced me just a tiny bit LOL)


Cake patterns are smart, well drafted patterns for knit fabrics, designed to fit most women, she also offers a great service through her blog with loads of tips and tricks and sewalong. Just pay her a visit and you’ll see!

On September 26 StephC launched her latest collection (I admit I was kind of stalking her, checking every day if the collection was out yet :D), The Red Velvet collection which will be available at a special price for a limited time only. Of course you can buy single patterns but I love all patterns in the collection so I got them all: Espresso, Red Velvet dress and Red Velvet clutch are instant downloads, Cocoa and Carmine will be available mid October (I can’t wait!!)

A PDF pattern is a file you download and print at home, then you have to tape it (let me tell ya, it’s a pita but totally worth it!) and it’s ready to be used!

This time Steph included a cute printable envelope in the PDFs, which is lovely because one of the problems with PDFs is where to store the pattern once is printed. Problem solved!

I already taped my Red Velvet Dress and Espresso Leggings and I started stitching the leggings because I had some cotton spandex black knit ready for this project (and the only RTW leggings I own(ed) had holes between my thighs… I dumped them as soon as I finished sewing Espresso!)

The whole Espresso experience it was great fun. The pattern, once taped, look like this


Cool, isn’t it? You fill the dots with your own measurements and then connect them and VOILA’, you have your custom fit leggings pattern. Told you she’s clever!

The pattern is in inches but it’s quite easy to convert it in centimeters (I’ve got a double measuring tape with both cm and inches but if you google “inches in cm” you just need to insert the number you need to convert and google will do it for you). After cutting the fabric, stitching up the leggings was a breeze. I used my own method, stitching both front and back rise first and the stitching the inseam from ankle to ankle. I used an overcast stitch on my sewing machine and a walking foot (and I’m not the only one who did this :)) which I find very useful when sewing with knits- I like the overcast stitch because I stitch and finish the edges at the same time, plus I’ve got 2 rows of stitches to secure my seams.

I used a 2 cm black elastic for the waistband, I fold the seam and stitched it using a honeycomb stitch, for its elasticity and because I think it looks nice.

I haven’t hemmed my leggings yet because I want to check how the fabric behave after another washing or two. Sometimes cotton knit shrinks a little after the first washing.

I might tweak the pattern a little to get a snugger fit around my knee and ankle, I decided to round up the measurements because it’s easier to take in the seams if needed than the other way round.But I LOVE these leggings and I’m definitely making many more! For once I have pants with a waistband which sits at my navel, where I want it to be, insted of under my boobs (since I started sewing my own clothes I’ve discovered that I’m short waisted, so I now know why all RTW bottoms look like this on me LOL)


I will try to have some pictures taken, I promise (maybe with my RV Dress) but you have to trust me, you’ll love stitching this leggings!

In the next post…. my first attempt at the Red Velvet dress!


Cartamodelli che uniscano praticità e vintage look, in una grande varietà di taglie? Vi presento StephC! Il suo blog si trova qui e Cake Patterns e il nome della sua linea di cartamodelli!

Il primo vestito che ho cucito è Tiramisu, un abito anni ’50 in versione moderna, cucito con kersey di cotone bielastico. Dopo aver provato Tiramisu ho decretato che Steph è la mia designer preferita!

Alcuni giorni fa è uscita la sua nuova collezione di cartamodelli, la Red Velvet. E’ possibile comprarli come modelli singoli oppure l’intera collezione ad un prezzo scontato, ma solo per pochi giorni ancora, fino a che non uscirà la versione stampata.

Io ho comprato la collezione intera in PDF, per ora sono usciti l’abito Red Velvet, i leggings Espresso e la borsa RV.

Ho iniziato cucendo un paio di leggings, visto che gli unici che possedevo erano ormai bucati e sono stati gettati non appena ho finito di cucire questo nuovi!

Il cartamodello è disegnato da noi, utilizzando il template stampato. E’ facilissimo, basta misurarsi come da istruzioni, riempire i “puntini” e connetterli tra loro per ottenere il proprio cartamodello personalizzato!

Ho utilizzato un jersey bielastico nero in cotone e lycra, acquistato qui, servizio ottimo!

Ho cucito utilizzando un punto coverlock sulla mia macchina da cucire, molto robusto ed elastico, condizione essenziale quando si cuce con maglina e jersey. E ho usato il piedino a doppio trasporto, anche questo utilissimo soprattutto con tessuti elastici o scivolosi o… sempre 😀

Devo ancora orlare i miei leggings, lo farò dopo averli lavati un paio di volte perchè il jersey tende a stringersi ancora un pochino nei primi due lavaggi successivi al primo.

I prossimi li stringerò un pochino su ginocchio e caviglia, ho preferito tenerli leggermente più larghi visto che è più facile stringere che allargare.

A parte questo, sono perfetti e finalmente ho dei pantaloni il cui cinturino sta sul mio ombelico, dove io voglio che stia e non appena sotto le tette! Da quando ho iniziato a cucire i miei vestiti ho scoperto di avere la vita alta e questo finalmente spiega perchè qualunque pantalone io provi in negozio mi fa apparire un po’ fantozziana…. la famosa vita alta, eredità della mia prozia paterna (già che c’era poteva passarmi anche i suoi magnifici occhi azzurri, no? 🙂

Prometto che se l’homo collabora metterò delle foto.

Al prossimo post, in cui parlerò del vestito Red Velvet e della mia prima prova con questo cartamodello.


4 thoughts on “Fancy an Espresso?

    • It is comfy, I lived in it this summer, I’d like to make a long sleeved merino jersey version but my to do list is so long that I’m not buying any more fabric for a while 🙂

  1. I’m excited to see your Espressos! I haven’t replaced my solid black RTW leggings with Espressos yet, and when I wore them yesterday I definitely decided to bump that up in my priority list. My standards have gone up regarding the fit I want from my leggings! Looking forward to seeing your other RV makes as well… 🙂

  2. By the way, I only just now realized that you are the Solange who’s communicated with me on my blog… 🙂 I’m happy to put your pretty face with your name, and I have subscribed so I can keep up with your makes… Congrats on starting your own blog! 🙂

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